Garment Manufacturing Process From Fabric to Finished Apparel Products Prasanta Sarkar CCS --------------PAGE END----------------------- Introduction The clothes and apparel items we The most conventional process of wear are mostly made from textile making the readymade garments in fabrics. The fabric used in making our mass production is explained in this garments moves through a long path. book. From the textile mills to fabric processing units to fabric The major garment manufacturing warehouses. Finally, fabrics reach to a process, sub-processes and activities garment factory, where the fabric involved in each sub-processes are sheets are cut into many pieces as covered in one eBook. To learn the garment components. processes completely and in detail, I have given links for your further The textile fabrics are made of yarns reading on various terms and through weaving and knitting process processes. by using looms and knitting machines. Fabrics are converted into wearable I am assuming that you are a learner, garments through the garment or a would-be garment entrepreneur or manufacturing process in garment you might be planning to start factories. business in the garment manufacturing industry. At the time of garment making functional trims and accessories are You will find a helpful guide once you attached to the garment at various read this eBook. stages. Though these are the basic knowledge This eBook covers how the garments of the garment manufacturing are made and its processes from process, you will get the complete fabric to the finished product. overview of the garment manufacturing processes. Remember, there are different ways of making garments. CCS. 2 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment manufacturing workflow The garment manufacturing process starts from order receiving from a customer and ends it once the finished garments are dispatched to the buyer. The garment production cycle depends on orders. In garment production, some of the processes can be performed in parallel but most of the processes are dependent on the previous process. A linear workflow chart will explain all the major activities required in garment manufacturing. Refer the workflow chart in the next page. In another chart, the garment manufacturing process flow chart of a typical garment product is shown in the following page. This chart would help you understand the process flow Following steps are involved in the pre- in a better way. production stage. Product study, Garment factories normally purchase Pattern making, fabric from the various fabric Garment sampling and approval suppliers. Prior to sourcing the fabric, Fabric development, there are some pre-production Fabrics and trims approval processes handled by the factory Fabric and trims procurement, merchandiser. Pre-production meeting. CCS 3 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment manufacturing workflow Order Fabric Fabric lap dip Product study receiving development development Garment Pattern sampling & Pattern Fabric grading sample making approval approval Fabric Fabric shade band checking Fabric testing procurement preparation Marker Fabric layering Fabric Fabric cutting making grouping Sorting & Issue to Garment Quality bundling stitching floor stitching checking Folding and Finishing Checking after Issue to wash and washing/finis tagging complete ironing hing Shipment Ready to ship Packing and boxing audit the finished garments CCS. 4 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment manufacturing process flow Orderreceiving The garment manufacturing process Planning Sampling Material Sourcing Man power flow is shown in the Material FIT Sample righthand side chart. This Machine Size Set Sample Fabric and Trim in- chart represents the house www.onlineclothingstudy.com manufacturing process flow of a typical garment PP Sample approval product. This chart would Material FAIL Inspection help you understand the PP Meeting process flow in a better PASS way. Cutting Printing/ Embroidery Sewing Checking FAIL Repair/Alteration garments www.onlineclothingstudy.com PASS Washing Finishing Checking FAIL Repair/Alteration garments PASS Packing FAIL Shipment www.onlineclothingstudy.com Audit PASS Shipment Dispatch CCS. 5 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Pattern Making In garment manufacturing, 2D fabric is converted into 3D garments. To make the garments with correct fit and in right shape, pattern plays an important role. From the design sketch and product specification sheet, garment patterns are made by a technical person (also called a pattern master). To cut the fabric for making any kind of apparel product, you need a template for different body parts. These paper templates are called a pattern. The first pattern of a design is made at the time of prototype making. The patterns are modified and corrected as the sample development progressed and patterns are graded during size set sample making. The final patterns are approved after the PP sample approval. (Image source: pexel.com) Nowadays most designers and garment factories use CAD system for making the patterns. The CAD system has another advantage in maker making, instead of manual marker making marker papers are printed by a plotter. The markers are efficiently made by CAD system and fabric utilization can be improved. CCS 6 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Sampling Garment factories develop garment The sampling department is also work samples and take approvals on the as research and development (R&D) sample from the buyers. Without section for the factory. The sampling sample approval, factory is not process helps production team to allowed to start the bulk fabric cutting start the bulk production with better Factories also need to develop various prepared and fewer issues. types of garment samples at various stages of the sample development. A pre-production meeting is conducted at the factory by the Garment manufacturers follow the merchandising team. In this meeting product techpack to prepare the product design, production schedule garment sample as well as for the bulk and job responsibilities, buyer's production. requirement in all aspect of the product quality, and production In the sampling stage factory learns completion deadline are discussed. the garment construction details and material requirement for a given order. Image source: pexel.com by Liza Summer CCS. --------------PAGE END----------------------- Fabric Development Textile fabrics are available in three they work with the fabric supplier to main categories - knitted, woven and develop the desired (new) fabric non-woven fabrics. Fabrics are quality. manufactured in textile mills, and power looms. Later, the greige fabrics Fabric development: are finished as per the buyer's The garment maker gives the fabric requirement (design specification). quality requirement to the fabric The factory only needs to find the supplier for developing a new fabric fabric(s) that is required for the design. At this stage, the negotiation style/design. of fabric price is done with the fabric vendors. Lab dip or desk loom is Selection of fabrics: developed at this stage prior to bulk There are thousands of fabric designs fabric ordering. Prior to bulk sourcing, and fabric quality available. Fabric fabric sample is tested to check selection is done based on fabric whether the desired quality is matched quality, like fabric color, fibre content, with the developed fabric or not. For surface texture, hand feel, physical yarn dyed stripes knits fabric knit- and chemical properties. If the down is developed. required fabric is already available in the market, factory purchase those Garment manufacturers take approval fabrics from the stock. For this factory of bulk fabric by submitting a fabric need to explores various places for swatch to their buyer. finding the required fabrics. Otherwise, CCS 8 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Bulk Fabric and Trims Procurement Fabric sourcing: How much fabric is Allowance (+/- 2%), fabrics are pre- needed for each garment? What is the shrunk prior to bulk cutting. average fabric consumption for bulk Sometimes patterns are modified production? according the fabric shrinkage which gives correct measurement in the At this stage there are few garment after washing. calculations on fabric consumption per garment. This work is done by Fabric sorting and shade band pattern making department (CAD preparation: It is a common fact that department). Based on the fabric when fabrics are purchased in bulk, consumption, total fabric requirement the fabrics are processed in different for an order is calculated and the lots (batches) depending on dyeing same is procured from the pre- machine capacity. So, there are approved fabric suppliers. chances of having shade variation of fabrics of same colors. To avoid The fabrics are in-housed and stored shade variation in garments, shade in the factory or in a central band is prepared by the factory. warehouse of the company. Sourcing for trims and accessories: Fabric quality inspection: Whether Like the fabric sourcing, all required fabrics are purchased from the buyer garment trims and accessories are nominated fabric suppliers or from the purchased. Trims and accessories are open market, factories are not sure sourced in advance to the production whether all the fabrics are fault free. start. Trims requirement is calculated So, fabric checking is done verifying based on the trim consumption per fabric quality. Fabric may be required garment. Later, cutting is done by to check 100% or can be checked layering the same shaded fabric randomly based on fabric quality together. received. For an example, 4-Point System is used by the factories for Quality checking of trims and fabric inspection and fabric quality accessories: Quality of the trims are grading. inspected and approved for production. Trims like laces, twill Some fabric tests like fabric GSM, tapes, button, zippers, and draw cords fabric shrinkage, and color bleeding in are tested for color bleeding. Defective washing are done by the factory. If the and damaged trims are separated and fabric shrinkage is more than the are not attached to the garments. CCS 9 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Production Planning and Scheduling All the processes and activities are planned and scheduled in advance by OCS OnlineClothing the production planner. Production Study planning team executes and controls PRODUCTION the production activities as per the PLANNING& scheduled plan. They keep track of the actual process activities to ensure on- CONTROLIN time order completion. FreeEXCEL TEMPLATES APPAREL In case some process are legging MANUFACTURING behind the schedule planner needs to step in and find a way to speed up the The Beginner's Guide production processes. A time and action calendar is prepared PRASANTASARKAR by the planning team for production scheduling and controlling. Mostly the T&A is made by a merchandiser. My book "Production Planning and Learn more about the PPC book. Control in the Apparel Manufacturing' would be a very helpful aid in learning production planning areas in the apparel manufacturing. CCS 10 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Fabric Cutting Process Fabric is the costly item in garment Fabric spreading: manufacturing. About 60-70% cost of First the fabric rolls are opened and the garment is incurred in fabrics. For spread on a cutting table layer by this reason, garment factories wisely Iayer. This process is done by hand or utilize fabrics. Some of these fabric by using an automatic spreading saving tips in the cutting room surely machine. help garment makers to save fabric as well as money. The length of the layer is decided based on the marker size and marker The bulk cutting is done by means of length. Multiple numbers of fabric cutting machines. Different types of Iayers are spread on the table and all fabric cutting machines are available the fabric layers are cut together. for bulk cutting. Before the cutting of Depending on the fabric thickness fabric, cut order plan is prepared and number of plies in a lay is decided. fabric is taken from the fabric store Normally the height of the lay is kept according the requirement. according to the cutting machine blade height. Sometimes fabrics are Following steps are followed in the relaxed for over night. cutting section. CCS 11 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Marker making: used for numbering the cut plies. For manual marker making, cutter uses the paper patterns for marking Sorting and bundling: and use chalk to mark outlines of the Cut components are sorted by size, patterns. After marking the outlines on color, and bundle size. Then bundling the lay, patterns are removed, and the is done and stored in the cutting room. cutter follows the outline to cut the A ticket (bundle tag) is attached to the garment parts. bundle to identify the component and style details. Component numbering on the marker: Normally, in a marker more than one Dispatch cuttings to stitching section: garment are cut and garment may be Cut bundles are sent to stitching of different sizes. To avoid mixing of section as per the need of sewing different garment sizes during floor and loaded to the line. Some bundling and sorting, the size is factories prefer to send the whole lay marked on the top layer after manual to stitching section and bundling of marking. For automatic cutting or the layer are done on the production paper printed marker, this marking is line. not required, as all patterns are already come with style and size Quality checking in cutting section: marking. In the cutting section, quality of the cut components like notches, pattern Lay Cutting: shape, components measurement, After marker making, the lay is cut by and major fabric defects (hole in using a cutting machine. For a single fabric, cut mark etc.) are checked. ply and a small number of plies, hand Parts measurement is taken from scissors are used. top, middle and bottom plies and compared with the actual patterns, Ply numbering: Ply numbering is done and shapes etc. to all the garment components. This process is included to avoid color Read the book Garment variation and mixing of sizes in the Manufacturing Processes, Practices, garment components of a same and Technology to learn and explore garment. In single piece production the garment manufacturing processes system bundle numbering is not followed by garment manufacturers required. A hand machine is and exporters. CCS 12 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Printing and Embroidery Printing and embroidery processes are printing and embroidery process are value added but an optional process. outsourced. Printing on the garment is done at either fabric stage or after cutting of For small printing works like heat garment components. There are transfer logo printing, factories can different ways of printing in garments. install heat transfer printer inside the Mostly used printing method is screen factory and print logo and care printing, heat transfer printing. instruction. For small-scale set up, this is not necessary to set up facility for printing and embroidery process. If required, CCS 13 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Stitching After fabric cutting and printing The garment stitching process process (optional process), cut involved following sub-processes. components are sent to the sewing Part preparation department. Sewing operators stitch Marking on panels and assemble garment components Folding and steam pressing one by one and make the complete Stitching/assembling garment. Quality checking At the time of sewing, garments are In the sewing section, operators are checked by quality checkers. Stitched also provided various sewing supplies garments are dispatched to finishing like stitching threads, sewing machine section or washing department if needle, trims, operation specific washing is required. guides and attachments. CCS 14 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Parts preparation: Before assembling garments different types of sewing the garment, individual garment parts machines are used. are prepared in the preparatory section. For an example, in shirt Quality inspection on the floor: On the manufacturing, shirt collars, sleeve sewing floor, stitching quality is cuffs and sleeves are prepared in the checked by the quality checkers. preparatory section and later loaded in Normally, the semi-stitched garments the shirt assembling section. are checked to detect the stitching Preparatory section is introduced in faults. The checker suggests a the line to improve line balancing. Be solution to the operator who is noted preparatory section is not responsible for making the defects. required for products like t-shirt, boxer, Inline quality inspection, roaming leggings. inspection, and end-of line quality checking are followed in the sewing Marking part: In a garment, some part floor. requires marking to attach one garment component to another Production line set-up: The stitching precisely. Marking is normally done by floor utilizes the maximum manpower using chalk or magic pencil by using a in a garment production units template or laser ray. Like in formal including sewing machine operators, shirt for buttonholing and button helpers, pressman, alteration tailor, attachment, front plackets are marked feeder, data collection, work-study manually to define the correct location officer, quality checker and line of the button positioning. The marking supervisors. In mass garment process helps operator deciding production, the production line layout where the job needs to be done and line setting is done prior to accurately. loading every new product (style). Industrial engineers prepare the Parts folding and pressing: Depending operations bulletin and line layout. In on the requirement an operator may the operation bulletin, they estimate need to fold the component and press manpower requirement and machine it by means of a template. Like, chest requirement to produce the target pocket is folded and pressed prior to quantity. attaching the pocket on the chest. Learn more about industrial engineer Assembly section: The garment in the apparel manufacturing from my components are assembled by the blog operators step by step in a sequence https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com of product construction. To sew CCS 15 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Washing In garment manufacturing, washing is For garment washing industrial an optional process. For some type of garment washing machines are used. products (e.g., sweaters and denim Factories can set-up washing made items) washing is must. But department if they see washing washing is not necessary for many requirement is for their orders. garment items like, shirts, t-shirts and ladies' dresses. Dry cleaning is required for some types of items like high-fashion items Washing is done to remove dirt and and suits. For denim items, dry dust from the garments. Washing process is another process involved process involves additional cost, so before finishing. this process is done only if buyer asks for washing of their orders. More than just cleaning of garments, washing is also done to give washed look to the finished garment with different types of finishes. CCS 16 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Finishing Process All the stitched garments are finished Removing ply numbering stickers and prior to sending a shipment to loose threads: customers. Finishing means removing I have mentioned above that in cutting all creases and wrinkle from the department, all the garment garment, cleaning dusts and loose components are labeled by numbering threads and repairing defective pieces. stickers. Those stickers are removed manually by a team of workers. In this section, a brief list of garment finishing processes are explained. Initial garment checking: This checkpoint is placed prior to Thread trimming: ironing the garments. Visual In case garments contain uncut inspection and measurement checking threads - left by stitching operator is done in the initial checking during stitching, threads are cut at this Finishing checkers check for loose stage. Uncut threads can be trimmed and uncut threads, ply numbering by manual trimmer or a thread stickers, garment construction, trimming machine. CCS 17 --------------PAGE END----------------------- garment labeling, workmanship and Different types of pressing equipment measurement after washing/non- are available for garment pressing wash. Depending on the product and production volume, the right pressing Finishing room quality checkers check equipment is used. for stitching defects in seams, fabric defects in the garment and any other Final garment checking: kind of defects those need to be The pressed garments are rechecked repaired. So, at this stage checkers for measurement and visuals segregate the defective garments and inspection. Shade variation, correct defective garment are sent to the Iabeling of size and content labels are repair section. check in this stage. All stitching defects are sent to a Any defective garment detected at this repair tailor. Defects like stains and stage is sent back for repairing hard stains, defective garments are given to stain removers. In the Further reading: Learn about the finishing thread trimming and finishing machines, tools and removing of stickers are done by the equipment. checkers also. Garment pressing (ironing): The garment pieces are pressed by an iron. Normally steam press is used for processing cotton garments. In this process, creases and wrinkles in unfinished garments are removed, and give a fresh look to the apparel products. CCS 18 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Garment Folding and Packing In this stage garment folding, tagging and packing is done manually. The packing process is normally performed in the finishing section. Garment folding: The finished garments are folded in a specific dimension. Folding can be done by using a template too. The price tags hang hags and any other kind of tags are attached to garment after folding. The garment folding types varied Image source: img.etimg.com depending on the garment item and buyer's requirement. Sometimes the whole garment is packed in a hanger process is followed for internal quality without folding. audit and to ensure that no defective garments are packed into the cartons. Packing: The folded garment is packed into a polybag to keep it fresh Finished and ready product: Finally. till it reaches to a retail store or to a the garments are ready for the showroom. Different types of packaging accessories are used to shipment and ready for the end consumers. As per the ex-factory keep the garment in a desired shape. schedule and shipping plan, garment Some products are packed into factories dispatch the finished item paperboard cartons directly without for shipping. packing it into a polybag. The garment manufacturing process Carton packing: For the transport of ends at this point. You read the the finished garment are packed into complete steps from fabric to finished bigger cartons. product. Now you know how garments Internal Audit: The packed garments are made in factories. are then audited for quality assurance of the outgoing finished products. This CCS 19 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Daily Production Reporting The work does not get completed After the shipment of an order, each unless you prepare the daily department prepare order completion production report and do the reporting report. Fabric store prepares the fabric of all activities. The same is true in reconciliation report and trims reports. garment manufacturing business. Cutting team, production team and Each department head prepares their finishing and packing team, prepare daily production reports and submit reports of the all the leftover fabrics the report to their seniors. and (surplus) garments after shipment. There are few key reports, all factories The quality department, prepare prepare without fail. It is the daily quality analysis report for each orders production report. Status of inventory. and document it. Employee attendance and daily expenses. If you are interested to learn more about garment production and quality In the production area, industrial KPIs and want to know how to prepare engineering team make couple of the KPI analysis report, read my book production related reports. In monthly "Garment maker's KPI: Why measure & interval they used to prepare KPI how to measure. reports. Another good thing with the help of real-time production tracking system and loT-based sewing Garment Maker's machine, factories can get real-time KEY KPI data. PERFORMANCE INDICATORS The finishing and packing team prepare the packing list. Their packing Why Measure &How To Measure? list is important for tallying packed quantity. Invoicing to the buyer is done based on the packed and shipped quantity. The shipping team prepares all the necessary documents for export orders and documentation PRASANTA SARKAR needed for goods transportation. CCS Cty sdy CCS 20 --------------PAGE END----------------------- What is next? Garment manufacturing is a profitable business. One can a start small- scale garment manufacturing business with 10-15 sewing machines. If you like to explore more on garment manufacturing processes and want to know how the RMG industry works and make such huge volume of apparel items, read my blog Online Clothing Study (OcS). It is an open source of huge reading materials including articles, how-to guides, free downloads, formats, templates and free-eBooks. I have also written some books for the newcomers and industry professionals Read OCS Blog Buy My Books A Practical Guide Book for Engineers GARMENT in Apparel Manufacturing MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIAL PROCESSES,PRACTICES AND ENGINEER'S TECHNOLOGY DIGEST Learn, Practice and Improve Factory Performance PRASANTASARKAR PRASANTASARKAR www.onlineclothingstudy.com CCS. 21 --------------PAGE END----------------------- Many thanks for downloading this eBook. If you find this eBook an informative, please share it. Follow us @prasantasarkar in @onlineclothingstudy CCS 22 --------------PAGE END-----------------------